7/23/2023 0 Comments Remove 40 amp fuse toyota![]() "see below":Ĭable set $7, Rockford*Fosgate brkr $28 (Total cost = $35)Īnd. The repair would also need to be cost effective. My objective here is to provide a viable, alternative method of repairing the problem (or feeding the Load-side supply bus 'after the main fuse is blown') that wouldn't involve taking it to a dealership. But my objective in posting this thread wasn't really to get the box opened at this point. However, the information needed for the proper dismantling of this 'Busway' has apparently been 'Unavailable' regarding the '4Runner' for more than a decade reaching back to Gen 4. I think it would be great if someone could provide a 'STEP-BY-STEP' tutorial guide with the correct procedure for opening the box. a Fused jumper-line may be a viable alternative to the dealership, hope you'll find some portion of this thread helpful! Not much to see here but it is interesting how they fit it all in thereĪnyway, if you ever blow this fuse at anytime for any reason you'll have to decide how you'll go about getting it repaired. this may be positioned a little differently than your truck 4'th gen, but everything else relevant is much the same! I meant to show you how the fusebox "Busway template" is configured internally. Or, you can grab the alternator output lug right in the engine room fusebox, "see red arrow": NOT to resolve a blown fuse, but a parallel (partner) supply line for quicker battery feeding when using Over-sized alternator, High current accessories know as " THE BIG THREE", if you've already implemented this wiring configuration then you've already by-passed (Jumped) your 140A Main Alt fuse! To jump a blown line fuse, you can terminate between the POS (+) battery post and alternator "B output" terminal. You can use any kind of fuse that you feel comfortable using e.g., wafer, cartridge, CB (Circuit Breaker 'pictured above'). Just make your own wire harness with a 140 amp inline fuse built-in like this one: And again I have the alternator's B-Term and supply cable traced in Pink, the 140A Alt fuse traced in Blue, and the Battery cable in Yellow so the risk of a mistake is minimized! The most practical way to restore power to those circuits lost due to a blown main fuse is to by-pass it using the exact same thing. This one gives the Charging circuit vantage point. Here's a different schematic to give another P.O.V. all of those circuits that tap that fuse (through the Load-side supply bus) have their own, appropriately sized fuses. But the main thing that will be lost is the alternator's ability to charge the battery because that fuse's primary function is to disconnect the battery cable in the event of a major front-end collision to prevent an explosion if you follow that line you'll see that the fuse is too large to protect anything else. If you look at the alternator (Top) and follow the pink trace to the main engine wire lug at the upper right-hand side, you'll see the Line side supply bus just to the left still in Pink as it travels down twds the 140A main fuse (which I have traced in Blue)! This fuse is referenced, number 12:140A Alt (For high current) "See Item list in the upper left corner"! Once this fuse is blown, you'll lose a few accessories e.g., courtesy lights, ECU, mayday, Radio, Amp. Since you can't really access this fuse we'll need to approach it another way. ![]() ![]() Here's what can be done about a blown alternator main fuse. first) through the basin and snapped it locking it in. The point is I believe that Toyota assembled the outerbox first, built the Busway grid, THEN pulled the wiring harness (conn. There are a few more but a lil' hard to point out.
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